Mossy

What it is

Oakmoss and treemoss, lichens harvested from bark. Heavily restricted since the 2000s over allergen limits, which is why classic chypres no longer smell the way they did.

What it smells like

Damp, green and slightly bitter, like the shaded side of a tree. It gives a fragrance a floor to stand on, and its absence is the single biggest reason reformulated classics feel thinner than people remember.

How strongly it is worn

The average strength this accord is listed at, where 100 means it dominates the fragrance.

60 / 100

What builds it

How much more often than the catalogue average. 1.0x would be chance, so these are the things that genuinely travel with it rather than the things that are simply common.

Accords it sits beside

Same measure, with its own family filtered out. Saying woody turns up with oud is a restatement, not a finding.

When it is worn

Against the average fragrance here. The line marks that average, so a bar past it means this is worn in that season or setting more than most.

Houses that use it most

Counted across the fragrances here, which reflects what we cover as much as what a house makes.

Hermes (7), Mancera (6), Chanel (4), Paco Rabanne (4), Tom Ford (4), Valentino (4).