Chanel No. 19 Poudre

Mostly cool, powdery and slightly rooty, closer to makeup than to a flower. Underneath that, like crushed leaves and cut grass, sharp with a bitter edge.

It opens on galbanum, neroli and mandarin orange, moves through iris and jasmine, and settles on vetiver, musk and tonka bean.

• galbanum: intensely green resin, bitter and sappy, like a snapped plant stem
• neroli: the bright, just-squeezed side of orange blossom: green, clean and faintly bitter

It lasts an average amount of time and sits close to the skin after the first hour.

Built from the note listing and the measured performance figures. We have not smelled this one.