Tobacco

What it is

Cured leaf absolute, not smoke. Curing is what develops the sweetness, and the material is closer to dried fruit and hay than to a cigarette.

What it smells like

Sweet, warm and leafy with a honeyed softness. People expecting an ashtray are generally surprised, and it almost always arrives with vanilla or tonka, which pushes it further still from anything lit.

Where it sits

Which layer of the pyramid it is listed in, across every fragrance here that carries it. A base note is one you smell for hours; a top note is usually gone within the first.

What it turns up with

How much more often than the catalogue average. 1.0x would be chance, so these are the things that genuinely travel with it rather than the things that are simply common.

When it is worn

Against the average fragrance here. The line marks that average, so a bar past it means this is worn in that season or setting more than most.

Houses that use it most

Counted across the fragrances here, which reflects what we cover as much as what a house makes.

Viktor & Rolf (5), Dolce & Gabbana (4), Initio Parfums Prives (4), Giorgio Armani (3), Givenchy (3), Guerlain (3).